Yemen Al Haymah Anaerobic Natural

Raspberry Preserves, Tart Frozen Yogurt, Fudge Brownie, Sesame Candy

This one is crazy special. It comes from Reef Mokha, a Yemeni outfit that's churning out some of the best lots the origin has to offer. They broke the mold with this one. Even in green form, it's a knockout: fiercely aromatic, uniform in color, and oozing Yemeni je ne sais quoi.

Hailing from the Al Haymah region, a mountainous zone just west of Sana'a, this coffee grew in the clouds. Most specialty coffees are grown between 1,500 and 1,800 meters; this guy matured at 2,300 meters. There's magic in a coffee grown so high. The cherries develop slowly, creating dense sugar concentration and technicolor flavors. And the processing is pretty much perfect, a dynamite pairing of traditional Yemeni natural steps with a carefully controlled anaerobic stage.

Raspberries burst in the cup, sugary, dense, slightly sticky, like a jar of preserves. On its own, that note would be distinguishing, but it's matched with a singular counterpart: tart frozen yogurt. It's the kind of tone that recalls the Pinkberry heyday, when lactic desserts reigned supreme. It's sweet and tart and laced with a subtle edge from the anaerobic processing.

Fudge brownie thickens the body, which turns out to be delightful and just a touch milky. The fudge note is sweet, sure, but it's not a Sara Lee affair. Think high-percentage cacao desserts, the kind that walk right up to the edge of savoriness. Finally, the cup finishes with a note of sesame candy. It's a Halva experience that's oh-so Yemen, and it's a sharp reminder that you're in touch with something special. Cups like this just don't come from any other origin.